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There are moments when I am so naive that I think perfumes cannot surprise me any more. I browse my collection of samples in vain, not knowing where to focus my curiosity. Then I get another sample. I don’t expect much as most natural perfumes I encountered did not impress me. Furthermore, this is a white floral, a category of which I am not so fond of. Of course I am wrong. This gem nicely challenges my prejudices and that is after all why I love perfumes so much. You can never be sure of anything.
Hiram Green’s perfumes have been well known to every one in the perfume world apart from me. However everything has its time and my current discovery, a tuberose scent called Moon Bloom, was well worth the wait. Tuberose is a multi-faceted scent and perfumers can highlight various aspects of this flower. In some cases it leans towards oriental, in others it goes more green.
Moon Bloom accentuates its carnal aspect. I don’t mean it evokes a zoo or sweaty armpits; this scent is body-like and intimate as if you were stroking a cat or dancing with someone so close you can feel the heat of their body. I am sure some would perceive this as sensual and sexy. For me it is rather comforting and familiar like coming back from long travels and changing back to my favourite T-shirt.
Hiram Green, the creator, says that what people identify as tuberose is, in fact, a combination of many components. Not that it is so important, but this perfume really makes an impression of a simple soliflore. As if it was just a top quality essential oil with countless subtle nuances. Tuberose in Moon Bloom is creamy, soft and buttery, with a dewy green touch, a drop of coconut water and a gentle mushroomy undertone. Do you know the smell of soil when you pick out a mushroom in the forest? What is left in the hole; the mossy fresh mushroom scent? That is it. The addition of jasmine and ylang-ylang gives Moon Bloom a tropical nectar vibe as if it was lit by the sun.
These flowers are warmed up by clove which slowly mingles into the ambery, woody tone and settles into a beautiful scent of beeswax. Most likely there is not any beeswax in the formula as the brand’s website claims that this perfume is vegan. In that case the illusion is perfect. Moon Bloom feels elegant and nicely compliments warm spring rain. On my skin it feels feminine but I am sure that on a man’s T-shirt in combination with the body scent it works well too.
If you like tuberose, make sure to try Moon Bloom. Especially, if you like the style of Frederic Malle Carnal Flower and its abstract, non-floral intimacy. Moon Bloom does not project far but I can smell it around me for long. In this way it reminds me of perfume extracts that keep close to the skin and as they warm up, they develop in many layers throughout a whole day. You just have to accept that the scent is there for you and those who are lucky enough to get very close.
HIram Green’s perfumes are newly available in Dotek Slunce perfumery in Brno.